An early morning swim in calm, crystal-clear, lightgreen sea towards a turtleshaped coral island sells Watamu to me in a couple of easy strokes. I can suddenly see why Watamu residents and fans claim that theirs is the best beach, all seven and a half kilometres of it. A pied kingfisher is hovering and repeatedly diving, beak first and bullet-like closer to shore. I swim back and walk up powder-soft white sand, criss-crossed by the trails of many crabs. My bare footprints feel like an intrusion into paradise.
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